TOPOGRAPHIC CHANGES IN THE SURF ZONE PROFILE
نویسندگان
چکیده
منابع مشابه
Scaling surf zone turbulence
[1] Turbulence in the surf zone, the shallow region adjacent to the shoreline, has a key role in beach erosion, fertilization, dispersal, and larval settlement of marine invertebrates, and microbial contamination dilution in beach waters. Breakingwave generated (the dominant source) surf zone turbulence is understood poorly. A new surf zone turbulent dissipation rate scaling is derived, that co...
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The nearshore potential vorticity balance of Bowen and Holman (1989) is expanded to include the forcing from wave group-induced radiation stresses. Model results suggest that the forcing from these radiation stresses can drive oscillations in the longshore current that have a spatial structure similar to linear shear instabilities of the longshore current. In addition, the forced response is ne...
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[1] Observations of velocity fluctuations with periods between about 4 and 30 min, thus longer than infragravity waves and referred to as very low frequency (VLF) surf zone motions, are described and compared with numerical simulations. The VLF motions discussed here exclude instabilities (generated by the wave‐driven alongshore current velocity shear) that occur in the same frequency range by ...
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ژورنال
عنوان ژورنال: Coastal Engineering Proceedings
سال: 1966
ISSN: 2156-1028,0589-087X
DOI: 10.9753/icce.v10.30